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Jeans belts | medium width
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First of all, and before talking about belt quality, I would like to underline one important point: you will never find any quality belts in any supermarket or retail big name store, never. You will find for the sure cheap product but it is impossible to find some good belts.
The main reason is the cost of the initial product, a good leather belt is more expensive than $19, and that does not match their business model, and the other reason is the sizes, belt sizes are pretty tricky and request real customer service and a minimum knowledge in this specific industry, one time again that’s not their business model.
3. Souple or not souple? thick or not thick?
5. Stitching or not Stitching?
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Bull Leather straps
GAROT jeans belts for men
1. Belt and belt.
Before talking about what is a good jeans belt, we are going to quickly see what is a ‘’crappy’’ jeans belt, I’m not going to talk about the design, we are all different, and I am the kind of guy who likes to keep stuff simple, for me:
- A belt is a belt,
- it supposed to handle my pants,
- cost around $50 *
- and stay forever,
* With our welcome discount code located at the end of this article you pay your jeans belt around $40 on our website, you can't find a better price for a handmade full grain bull leather jeans belt online.
(In this post we are going to talk about a good strong natural belt, we will talk about dress belts in another post and this post won’t be written by myself but probably by a more fancy guy in the company (yeah we have some, and we have some fantastic dress belts as well but for now let stay ‘’raw and wild’’).
A belt under $25 is not in full grain leather belt, period, anyone who claims otherwise is lying, it is simply not possible to run a business by selling a full grain leather belt at this price with a correct buckle, it was when we have started 20 years ago, but it’s not anymore, so if you see a $25 dollar belt it’s probably the kind of ‘’Genuine leather’’ nobody wants to buy especially for a jeans belt or in split grain leather. Can you do your own leather belt for $25, if you know the right guy to get the right piece of leather probably? The most important is to be sure that your belt is made in full grain leather, with real leather, you are sure that it will stay forever. to be short: all jeans belts in another material than leather won't last long on a pair of jeans, you have already probably experimented that one time in your life.
2. Do the right choice.
The first choice is the full grain leather, the best choice is the bull leather, the bull leather from the double butt is the only choice I recommend. The double butt selection (Croupons in the French industry) is among the finest pieces of leather used in the leather goods industry. They are very thick and firm pieces, offering excellent resistance. They come from the hind leg portion of the hide running around the butt and up towards the spine, on both sides of the animals. This leather is obtained from the skins of oxen, cows, or bulls.
Jeans belts | medium width
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3. Souple or not souple? thick or not thick?
These types of leather are tanned with the greatest care to obtain a very high-quality leather. Usually exclusively vegetable-tanned, people who know what they are doing only used this type of leather to do first choice Jeans belts.
Let’s talk about the thickness, I have read many times on different US web site that the thicker the belt, the stronger the belt, why not, so that means that if I want the strongest belt possible, I am going to buy a 1 cm (0.39 in) thicker belt, seriously. In fact, with this kind of leather: the vegetable tanned leather, everything depends on the tanning bath, the leather is immersed in the bath for a certain time, we have made so many tests with my tanning partners when we started this business to find the perfect combo that I can say that longer is the bath, stronger is the color, the most flexible is the leather. But nobody wants an extra ''souple'' (flexible) bull leather belt, and nobody wants leather not enough colored (the color does not go to the center of the skin cause the bath immersion is too short, we speak about insufficiently nourished leather).
The perfect result is the perfect immersion timing. So, when people say: I carry my gun every day and now my belt has doubled in size cause it’s not thick enough: wrong, the belt is stretched because it comes from leather that has remained in the tanning drums for a long time. If the leather has been thicker the leather should have been less souple because even with a long tanning immersion the mix has no time to deeply go/stay in the leather, the leather is not overnourished. That says that’s completely true that the leather stretches in time and it’s like that if you want a no-stretch product you have to buy belts with a specific lining or another material.
That means that we can have a very strong leather belt without a crazy thickness we usually have the best result between comfort and ‘’solidity’’ with a piece of leather between 3.8 mm and 4.5 mm, up to 4.5 mm, it's a personal analysis, we stop to speak about every-day jeans belts, nobody wants to look like Robocop at the grocery store.
Don’t give me wrong, I don’t say that belts must not be thick, my belts are super thick, but they are made to be used every day by normal people, 6 mm thickness for a regular belt is, in my opinion, too much.
The paring process before to fix the german snaps button
4. Lining or not lining?
The lining: one rule, no lining. For a jeans belt that is supposed to stay forever forget about the lining, in the belt industry lining is made to protect the fine and expensive pants, a jeans belt does not need any lining if it’s made with the right leather. One issue we have had in the past with some of our products from vegetable tanned leather was the color of the belt that rubs off on the pants, that’s happened, one time again everything depends on the leather bath process, with a fully natural tanning process the color is made with natural pigments and usually without fixer so the leather needs time to completely dry it is particularly true with oiled leather. If that happens simply wash your pants the color pigments used do not stick to the fabric. So no need for lining, on the other hand, we will choose a leather whose back is slightly sanded in order to refine the grain, it is more pleasant to wear.
5. Stitching or not Stitching?
The stitching, that really depends on the way it’s done and the kind of threads used for sewing usually if it’s done by an artisan who knows what is doing you will not have any problem with the stitching, I have stitched jeans belts that I wear since more than 10 years with absolutely no problem, again if you buy a belt made from leather over nourished avoid the stitching if the belt stretch, not the stitch. On a jeans belt without lining the stitching is made for the visual effect some jeans belts have great color stitching, it's longer to make so for sure the belt will be more expensive. It is a style matter.
6. The buckle holder
The buckle holder is another part of the belt that is quite important we can find different options on the market, including stitched, the screws option, and the snaps button. In 20 years of activity, we have tried all of these for our jeans belts and finally, we used the snaps button option. It is longer to produce, that ask specific equipment and the right kind of snaps to obtain the perfect result but I think that is the best option for a jean belt. Whatever the process to attach the buckle to the leather strap it is necessary to go through a paring process to reduce the thickness of the leather, especially with the bull leather.
We have found that the paring process has to be more pronounced with the stitching option to obtain very clear and nice stitching to handle the buckle, that’s very important for dress belts, not so much for jeans belts, on the contrary, we want to keep all the robustness of the leather on the entire belt.
The snap buttons are mounted with an industrial snap press, even if the leather remains thick the snaps are perfectly fixed and impossible to remove. The minimum circumference of snap buttons used in the making of a belt should not be less than 1.2 cm (12 mm) under that there is no way that with the thickness of the leather the snaps last. With experience we have found that the perfect snaps are the one around 1.5 cm (15 mm), it’s more expensive and bigger than what is generally used but that makes the belt indestructible and with this kind of snap the buckle handle is impossible to open without manual intervention, regardless of the horizontal pressure exerted on it. it's so effective that some of our customers discovered that their belt was mounted with snaps after 10 years when they came to ask us how to change their buckle.
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Whatever the system if it’s made by a professional you won’t be disappointing, the stitching is more usual than the snaps button because all the leather workshop has the machinery to do that, when you break your buckle, you need a pro to fix the belt, a leather belt is supposed to last forever, not the buckle. the snaps system is less common because it requires special equipment and many tests to find the right perfect snaps, it’s the perfect option for an indestructible belt because it’s allowing you to change your buckle if necessary and on the contrary of the stitching, robust snaps never crack. The screw system is used on dress/suit belt with a separate buckle holder made from an independent peace of leather it’s an interesting system but it is not our subject here.
Much more could be said about bull hide belts for jeans, but that's it for today. - Maxime GAROT
